San Blas Islands

Are you heading to Panama? Do you dream of enjoying a coconut on the white sand beaches of the beautiful San Blas Islands? Many people want to visit the beautiful Panama Islands, but decide not to go after starting their research. They soon discovered that there were no big-name hotels, hostels or resorts, and transportation was difficult and expensive. Although it’s a bit more complicated than a trip to Hawaii, you can visit the San Blas Islands on a budget, and once you’re lying on the beach with a coconut in hand, that little extra effort will be forgotten.

The San Blas Islands are controlled by the indigenous Kuna people, and although the area is legally part of Panama, it has its own laws and operates as an independent territory. The Kuna people are fighting against big business, so foreign capital is not allowed to develop on the island. That’s why you won’t find a Hilton hotel there! In fact, in order to protect the Kuna way of life, if Kuna leaders discover that a certain island has foreign funds entering and being used in exchange for improved facilities, these facilities may be confiscated or dismantled. It may seem dramatic, but as you relax on a pristine white sand beach with only the sound of birds and the sound of the waves, you’ll be thankful that there are no air-conditioned buzzing large hotels, no roaring music, and no hordes of noisy tourists.

Due to these restrictions, there are only two ways to visit the San Blas Islands: stay in an island cabin with a local family, or take a yacht to Colombia.

Option 1– Stay in a Beach Hut

Living on the island is the best way to live in paradise. Each island is owned by a Kuna family, and some by several families with whom you will live on the island. There, you can relax on the beach, read a book, swim in the crystal clear waters, play beach volleyball, snorkel in search of starfish and manta rays, or take a water taxi to explore other islands, and much more. Somewhere else.

What to Book

There are two ways to book a beach hut tour. The first is to do it all as part of an “organized” tour, such as the one offered by Panama Travel Unlimited for $195-400 (depending on the date, night, and accommodation option). It’s not a bad deal for the services offered, and it keeps them together, but if you’re not after everything in an all-inclusive package, then you might overpay.

The second way is to book directly with the island and arrange your own transportation. Depending on the island, the fee is at least around $130. This may sound high, but most of the cost comes from treasury taxes and 4×4 transportation to the port, which is unavoidable. The price breakdown is as follows:

goods Cost (USD)
4×4 Transportation USD 60 round trip / USD 30 one way
Kuna entry tax $20
The port’s treasury pays taxes $2
Take a boat ride to the island USD 20 round trip / USD 10 one way
Accommodation (meals included) Over $26 per night
entire $128+

 

There are several islands where you can choose from accommodation. Franklins is one of the most popular islands, and Ina’s is getting better and better. Prices start at $26 per night for a bed in a dormitory and $2 per night for a private room for 60 people, depending on the island. Please note that the price does not necessarily indicate the quality of the islands, as they all have to follow the same Kuna restrictions and laws.

How to Book

Once you’ve decided which island you want to stay on, you can book through Mamallena’s Hostel in Panama City and they’ll arrange transportation and reservations on the island. They have some island details to help you choose. They don’t accept online bookings, so you’ll need to meet them in person, but the tour starts in Panama City, so this shouldn’t be a problem. Booking with them doesn’t require you to stay there, but staying there the night before might make your life easier as the pick-up time is 5:30 AM. Reservations can be made the day before, but if you want a specific island, it is recommended to book a few days in advance.

What to Expect

The living conditions in the San Blas Islands are all very similar, but the living conditions described here come from Ina Island.

The cottages are simple palm huts with sand floors but comfortable mattresses, clean sheets and mosquito nets, not many anyway. There are even flushing toilets and freshwater showers on the island (although the water is brought to the island by boat and poured into the tank by hand, so try to keep showers short).

Meals usually include rice and fish as well as vegetables. For those who don’t eat seafood, chicken can be used as a substitute, but if you’re vegan, you’ll only get extra rice and vegetables. You can bring your own drinks and food, and some will even bring a full one, but you don’t actually need to do this except for some snacks, unless you have dietary restrictions. There is beer, rum, coke and coconut available for purchase on the island ($1-1.50, $15 for a full bottle of rum). It is recommended that you bring enough water during your stay as this is cheaper than buying it there.

What Do You Need to Bring

Keep the size small as all of this needs to be installed on a small boat heading to the island, and you don’t need much anyway. Try putting it in a backpack or small duffel bag. Most hostels and hotels in Panama City store your belongings while you’re on the island.

  • Your passport (this is essential!) Without it, you may not be able to travel to the island or return to Panama City).
  • swimsuit
  • towel
  • If you want a good set of snorkeling gear (snorkeling gear on the island is often used)
  • Change of clothes
  • Some snacks
  • Repellents
  • Sunscreen
  • Hats and sunglasses
  • cosmetics
  • A good book
  • Lots of water
  • Enough money to pay for your stay and taxes en route
  • Change for drinks and snacks on the island ($50 and $100 bills are prohibited)
  • Lots and lots of patience

Be Patient

The most important thing is your patience. At best, Kuner’s management style can be described as an organized mess. Things may take a while, transport connections may not queue up, sometimes it may make you wait, accommodation may be overbooked, boats may not be able to accommodate all passengers. But don’t worry, eventually everything will work out. Your boat will eventually appear, and if it is full, then it will make as many trips as possible to get you to the island, and if the island is overbooked, then a bed will be arranged for you. So don’t worry, everything will come together eventually, so relax. You can feel stressed, angry, and grumpy throughout your trip, or you can take it calmly, go with the flow, and spend extra time making new friends with others in the same situation.

Option 2–Take a yacht or catamaran

If combined with a flight to Colombia, the yacht/catamaran option may be more cost-effective as the flight prices are roughly the same, or on a bumpy flight you can enjoy a 2-3 day trip to paradise followed by a 2-day open water voyage to Cartagena, Colombia. If you have good maritime capability, then this is the best option. If you are prone to motion sickness, carefully consider other options.

Boats can be booked in person through Mamallena Hostel via email or upon arrival. It is important to know as much information as possible about the vessel before booking. Every boat and every captain is different, and they can significantly affect the quality of your trip.

Ask the hostel for their recommendations, but also do your own research. Unfortunately, there is no TripAdvisor website for vessels, so you may want to check out a few different blog and review sites to get solid ideas. Don’t let the departure date control your choice, as many people make the mistake of choosing the first boat to depart. It may be great, but it may not be, so do your research.

Once you’ve made your choice, contact Mamallena and they’ll arrange everything for you and let you know where you need to go. For booking details and the journey itself, see Sailing to Cartagena on the Mamallena page.

Whichever way you choose to visit the San Blas Islands, you will have a wonderful experience. You will stand on the white sand beach, gaze at the blue sea, drink in paradise…… And a coconut or two!

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